KarlO - Menelli's Market

Received my Tichy windows yesterday and have been cutting the openings all day - man, lots of windows.

the storefront is an amalgam of the DPM Robert's Dry Goods. I sliced the top off of the wall and then added another section to make the window for the Sun Spot sign. I made the Sun Spot sign in Print Shop, copied it to Adobe, added the yellow background and the word "drink", then put it into Word to size and print - it took a little time.

I usually just dip the signs in Future Floor Wax and place them on the window - after the wax hardens the sign is affixed with no glue glops. However, on this model, the windows are real glass (microscope slide cover glass) so I decided to use adhesive transfer tape to attach the signs - the wax was not working right on the glass.

Here's what I do when I start something like this...just my way of doing it.

First, I try to get as many photos I can of the model

I then pick an object that I know the size of in real life - I usually pick a window or a door. Measure the object in the photo with calipers. Now, let's say it measures .5312 (17/32") that is now your scale for the building 17/32" = 3'. Just measure the building with the calipers and mark along the way, add up the spaces and times by 3.

Draw up the walls on graph paper

Glue the wall drawings to cardboard and cut them out - you now have your templates for making the cardboard mockup and for cutting the wood if it looks right. Be careful cutting out the cardboard.

Glue your cardboard walls together using a hot glue gun - if they look right, great - but usually it takes a couple mockups before they look just right - at least I can't seem to get them on the first shot.

This model has curved windows on the third floor. Instead of trying to hack the wood up I made this little sanding tool. I made a tapered dowel and then attached a piece of adhesive backed sandpaper. Start sanding at the small end of the taper and work your way to the thicker part of the taper and you get a perfect opening for the window. Here's how it looks.

Before I start any painting I go over every wall with this eraser - it cleans up the wood, removes any pencil lines and gives a little tooth for the paint to grab.

Here I am applying the first coat of full-strength, solvent based Floquil Grime. I've been using these paints and solvents for years in an unventilated area without any serious side effects. I think all the warnings are just to scare us.

Project Construction, Comments & Photography by Karl Osolinski